Reforestation 2: Foz do Iguacul

The flight from Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguacu takes 1 hour and 40 minutes, my last step in Brazil. There I meet a small group of investors and the tour guide from a German company that is reforesting on a large scale in Paraguay.

"Are you sure you're in the right hotel?" the friendly gentleman at the reception of the Hotel Recanto Cataratas asks me when I inquire about the tour guide for the small group. The company doesn't tell him anything. According to documents, the meeting point should be in the lobby at 7 p.m. Now it's 8:30 p.m. I rummage through my documents and show him.. He repeats that he doesn't know the organizer. "But I'd like to check whether you're in the system." In fact, another 3 people are registered, but only one other man arrived. "I can give you the room number!" Back home in Germany I would probably have had to fill out a thousand forms again.

Relieved, I dial his number from my room. A little later, a completely tired, bald man in his mid-forties sits in front of me and introduces himself as Chris. We start our conversation. Until recently he was married to a Brazilian woman. Before his divorce, they had earned extra money together at street festivals with a stand for South American drinks. However, he works full-time in Switzerland as a nurse. I like his mischievous, slightly ironic way of telling stories. We hit it off straight away and explore the hotel decorated for Christmas. It accommodates many families, is tailored to their needs and, thanks to its spaciousness, offers enough space for the children and their visibly stressed parents. But solo travelers also get their money's worth with a wide range of culinary dishes and drinks. The well-stocked bars with live music make your stay entertaining.

A completely different Christmas feeling.

The following morning I get to know the other two participants. Anton, undoubtedly a sophisticated person in his wiry, well-trained appearance, worked as a software developer at a large German software company. Now, at 66, he is enjoying his retirement, including cycling at home and abroad. And then there is Haiko, a master welder from Thuringia, down-to-earth like something out of a western with John Wayne. Like me, he has already purchased land in Paraguay. Now he is thinking about emigrating to this country completely. He is a doer, a go-getter and can't just walk past any agricultural machine, no matter how large it is.

Gustav, our guide, lives in Paraguay, has German roots and speaks the language perfectly. He's tall, broad-shouldered and slightly cross-eyed, which irritates me a bit. Despite his advanced age, he looks like a rascal. He apologizes for being late yesterday. There were problems with airline arrival times.

Good to knows

• There are daily buses to the falls from the Urbano Terminal in Foz do Iguacu.

• Admission prices fluctuate greatly due to inflation and general price increases. That's why I refrain from providing such information here.

• Season is all year round, the climate is subtropical. The best time to travel is February to September. The remaining months are humid and hot.

• Both sides have their advantages. from the Argentine side there are more numerous panoramic views.

The angry god Boi

After a hearty breakfast, our tour starts on the Brazilian side, in Foz do Iguacu. From here we take a short detour to Argentina. According to Gustav, you can see the waterfalls best there. The Paraguayan natives call the Iguacu: the big water. They are accessible from Brazil and Argentina, are 2.7 to 4 km in length - depending on where you read - and consist of around 250 waterfalls. Some are up to 82 impressive meters high, with 1500 m³/s to 10500 m³/s of water mass.

The Iguacu was originally a clear-water river. Erosion caused by deforestation in Brazil gives it a brown color, which is due to the significant amounts of sediment. The waterfalls have been one of the seven natural wonders of the world since 2011. Since 2013 they have also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main waterfall is called Garganta del Diabolo, Devil's Throat, and is a 150 meter wide and 700 meter long gorge.

The myth of the Ava, an indigenous group, says that the evil god Boi - he is shaped like a giant snake - demanded a virgin every year. One of the chosen ones escaped in a canoe with her lover. Then Boi, full of anger, cut a gorge in the riverbed. This shows us that even gods don't always have their emotions under control. The girl's soul remained trapped in a rock at the foot of the waterfall. Her lover, turned into a tree on the banks of the Devil's Throat, was forever separated from his love. Oh, blazing fire, oh, divine power, Nero is said to have sung when Rome was burning.

The waterfalls are up to 82 m high.

Up to 1.5 million people visit the Iguacu Falls every year. Considering the crowds, the organization is well regulated by the national park administration. The routes are well signposted and lead through dense forest, over footbridges and viewing platforms. The drive from Foz do Iguacu to the Parque National Iguazú in Argentina takes about 30 minutes. You can choose between five hiking trails. Current opening times, information about the park and entrance tickets at iguazuargentina.com. To avoid long waiting times at the border with Argentina, I recommend setting off early in the morning.