In the streets of Manila
- Bernd
- Jun 24
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 7
2025
Discover Budget-Friendly Accommodations in Manila
Metro Manila, Malate District - Near De La Salle University
Metro Manila, Makati District - Business District
Metro Manila, Pasay District - Close to the Mall of Asia (MOA)
Experiencing the Charm of Manila's Chinatown
Manila's Chinatown, often referred to as Binondo, possesses a unique allure. Although it may not be the prettiest district, it embodies a rich history. Founded in the 16th century, Binondo is one of the oldest Chinatowns globally, established in 1594 by Chinese residents who embraced Catholicism.
Once a bustling trading hub, today it serves as a paradise for food lovers. The Pasig River flows through the city, accompanied by numerous smaller waterways. In Chinatown, these waterways create a picturesque scene.
However, the charm is marred by realities. Much of the untreated waste infiltrates the rivers, creating a foul odor. Discarded plastic waste adds to the problem, transforming the waterways into a polluted abyss.
The traffic compounds the discomfort, with noise and exhaust fumes filling the air. A tropical haze hangs over everything, intensifying the oppressive heat.
As I walk, I witness disturbing scenes. A teenager is shamelessly urinating on the roadside. It is evident that many live on the streets. Poverty is present everywhere, with numerous hands extended for help.
People seek shelter upon cardboard beds.
Since my initial visit nearly 20 years ago, little seems to have changed regarding the persistent poverty among the locals.
Now, the government is taking action to address these issues. Investments are going toward improving education and increasing access to better-paying jobs. Social welfare programs are also being introduced.
Yet challenges remain. Many children from impoverished families do not attend school due to the costs involved, such as supplies and uniforms. Additionally, infrastructure continues to lack adequate development.
A Growing Middle Class
There are some encouraging signs, though. It appears that the middle class is expanding, similar to trends observed in many Asian countries. Families are saving to invest in their children’s education. Yet, the economic divide is stark; the poorest still struggle to access basic necessities.
COVID-19's Lingering Effects
According to the World Bank Group, the pandemic has reversed years of progress in poverty alleviation. Despite government assistance, the unemployment rate exceeded 18% in 2021.
The growing middle class is accompanied by an increase in the impoverished population. Compounding the existing issues, the Catholic Church's stance on contraception exacerbates the situation.
When people struggle, they turn to family. Many unwanted children are born, and despite potential solutions, the taboo around contraception fuels an ongoing cycle of poverty.
Yet, churches often provide hope and community to individuals. They act as a glue for society amidst turmoil.
When traversing the streets of Manila, it’s vital to maintain respect for the less fortunate. I often carry a few pesos, knowing that my contributions won’t change their circumstances. However, they may bring a brief moment of relief.
Photographing the destitute without permission, especially women and children, is inappropriate and should be avoided.
I find myself drawn to the Minor Basilica. As a service begins, I take a seat and listen to the priest’s words, though I understand little. Sometimes, understanding isn't necessary.
Kings of Liars: The Watch Encounter
On this trip, a street vendor approaches. He attempts to sell me a high-end watch, glancing at my Tag Heuer and asking if it's real. I grin, responding, "Of course not! It’s a fake and keeps stopping." He scoffs at my response. He claims his Rolexes are genuine, offered at unbeatable prices. "Trade your broken watch for one of mine!" I politely refuse and retreat. It feels like we are both tricksters in this bizarre interaction.
Animal Welfare Concerns
Nearby, pet dealers sell animals in overcrowded cages. It reminds me of experiences in other parts of Asia. Birds, rabbits, kittens, and puppies are stacked into small enclosures, removed too soon from their mothers. The living conditions are heartbreaking.
The Allure of Intramuros
Chinatown seamlessly transitions into Intramuros, home to significant historic landmarks such as Fort Santiago, San Augustin Church, and the Manila Cathedral. I decide to explore this area on foot.
While the river still harbors foul-smelling waters, the atmosphere around the cathedral is calmer. Street musicians entertain passersby against a backdrop of vibrant food stalls.
As I indulge in delicious homemade lemonade, I see Spiderman amusing a group of students. For a small fee, he offers to pose for photos.
Casa Manila and Local Gems
Casa Manila offers a vibrant atmosphere filled with shops and eateries. Here, visitors find refuge from the bustling streets.
San Augustin Church: A Treasured Landmark
San Augustin Church, the oldest church in the Philippines, showcases splendid Baroque architecture. Rebuilt multiple times due to natural disasters, it remains a symbol of resilience. Its surroundings boast local eateries, adding to the experience.
Experiencing a service here highlights the deep religious commitment in this community. The church influences individuals and families significantly, showcasing a cultural depth that may be hard to fathom outside these borders.
A Culinary Delight at Ristorante delle Mitre
In the evening, I find myself at Ristorante delle Mitre, opposite the church. The food is delightful and the shakes are freshly prepared. This place serves both cakes and desserts, alongside a fantastic cappuccino. An oasis in the bustling district.
Café Intramuros: A Perfect Pit Stop
Café Intramuros buzzes with activity. It offers a variety of coffee and desserts. Like the other recommended spots, it lies near San Augustin Church.
The crowd here is lively, with a blend of locals and tourists. It's an ideal spot for a quick pause during your journey.
Café Royal: A Charming Corner
Nestled in the Barabas Building near San Augustin Church, Café Royal boasts lovely decorations. Despite being small, it features a diverse drink menu complemented by light snacks.
Refreshing Ice Cream Delights
Ice cream vendors dot the tourist trails. The Sebastian brand serves a curated selection of flavors. Despite initial concerns about food safety, the ice cream pleasantly surprised me—it was delicious!
Homemade Lemonades: A Refreshing Treat
A must-try are the homemade lemonades available in various flavors. My favorite? Lemon. They’re a true delight in the tropical heat.
Tranquil Green Oases
Nestled between Rizal Park and San Agustin Church lies Puerta Real Garden. It’s an excellent escape from the city’s buzz.
As urban planning evolves, these parks stand well-maintained, offering serene spots to unwind amidst the chaos.
Quote for Reflection
In line with the ongoing transformation, I echo a saying often attributed to Martin Luther:
"And if I knew
the world was going to end tomorrow,
I would still plant a city park today."
One last note: Rizal Park, mentioned earlier, is undergoing revitalization. New paths and cultural events breathe new life into this space.
Cultural Highlights: Philippine Ballet - Swan Lake
Venue: Aliw Theater, CCP Complex, Pasay
Experience Peter Tchaikovsky’s timeless ballet, Swan Lake. It narrates the passionate yet tragic tale of the enchanted swan princess, Odette, and Prince Siegfried. Their love is the key to breaking the spell, leading to various interpretations and outcomes.
After exploring, I anticipated this cultural treat. My friend arranged tickets for us. Our trip faced challenges due to heavy rain, traffic, and the weekend rush. Just as we Decided to give up after waiting for over an hour for a cab, luck struck—we secured a ride.
Eventually, we arrived, breathless, at the Aliw Theater around 8:30 PM. Amazingly, we discovered many others faced the same transport issues. The usher cheerfully helped us find our seats.
Tip: If you're running late for a show, don’t worry. While it's essential to keep time in mind, remember that in the Philippines, the sense of time is often more relaxed.
Before wrapping up my journey, I reflect on my love for the Philippines. As I prepare to leave for Dubai in early June 2025, I cherish the connections I've made and the memories collected.
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