Chișinău/Moldova
- Bernd
- Nov 12
- 8 min read
Moldova lies in close proximity to the conflict zone in Eastern Europe. Both Moscow and Brussels are competing for influence over the country – albeit in different ways.
While the European Union focuses on cooperation, Russia exerts considerable influence in the breakaway region of Pridnestrovye, known to us as Transnistria, and supports the separatist government there, which has seceded from Moldova and acts de facto independently.
Since the beginning of the war in Ukraine, the security situation in Moldova has been tense and unstable: political thriller, drama and a bit of Soviet nostalgia, like a Kinder Surprise egg for fans of Eastern Europe.
Despite these challenges, Chișinău continues to attract visitors who want to experience the unique interplay of optimism and Soviet nostalgia.
Chișinău remains the secret star among Eastern European travel destinations – an absolute insider tip that is guaranteed not to be featured on your neighbors' mainstream blog!
Travel information
Entry requirements: Please refer to the embassy's current recommendations. German citizens do not require a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days (as of October 2025).
Official language: Romanian
Religion: Approximately 90% of Moldovans belong to Orthodox Christianity.
The official currency in Moldova is the Moldovan Leu, which you can exchange at the numerous exchange offices.
The best time to travel is between May and October.
The tourist hotspots in Chisinau
Of course, you could meticulously plan and explore this incredibly charming city in two or three days—or rather, rush through it. The city's flair – its enchanting atmosphere – will remain hidden from you. So plan in two to three extra days to slow down.
Architecture and authenticity
Chișinău's cityscape is characterized by a mixture of classical and Soviet buildings, Orthodox churches, and modern buildings.
Historical influences and a diversity of architectural styles make the cityscape vibrant and varied.
The architecture reflects the transformation and cultural richness of Moldova's capital city.
The pursuit of authenticity is evident in the preservation of old houses and churches, especially the Orthodox cathedral. Markets and cafés also reflect the local way of life.
Speaking of lifestyle, the city boasts numerous green spaces and parks. Almost everywhere you'll find small kiosks offering freshly brewed coffee and small snacks.
Do as the Moldovans do: sit on one of the many park benches and watch life go by.
National Museum
My rating: *****
31 August 1989 St 121A, MD-2012, Chișinău
The Chisinau National Museum building was constructed between 1903 and 1905 and was originally established as an agricultural and industrial exhibition center. Since December 1983, it has presented important exhibits on the history and culture of Moldova. The exhibits are very attractively displayed, and the atmosphere is magnificent.
Nasterea Domnului – The Cathedral of the Nativity
My rating: *****
Opened in 1836, the cathedral is a defining landmark of the city. Its distinctive domed bell tower makes it recognizable from afar and gives it a unique appearance. The cathedral is an important venue for religious festivals and a significant symbol for the community of believers. The tower's viewing platform rewards you with a panoramic view of the city.
Bonjour Café
My rating: **
To begin with, there are several self-service Bonjour cafés in the city. I'm writing about the Bonjour next to the cathedral. What makes this place so unique for me is the atmosphere: its proximity to the cathedral, the old trees, the flowers, but especially the pavilion with the piano.
Although golden autumn has bid farewell to summer, people are still enjoying the sunshine by sitting outside in cafes and restaurants. With a bit of luck, you might even hear free piano accompaniment. Otherwise, the music plays softly from the speakers. Want a sound sample?
Arc de Triomphe
My raiting: ***
In the heart of Chișinău—between the cathedral and the National Assembly—stands the charmingly proportioned Arch of Triumph—not as enormous as its Parisian counterpart, but definitely delightful.
Since 1840, the structure has commemorated the victory over the Ottomans.
Today, honking cars and selfie-obsessed tourists pay homage to the monument.
With its lion heads, the arch is a popular photo subject—and supposedly brings good luck if you pass through it unscathed.
Rumors suggest that the Arch of Triumph is to be renamed the Trump Arch, but this cannot be confirmed.
City Park Gradina Publica Stefan cel Mare si Sfant
My raiting: ****
The city park with the monument to Stephen the Great is located diagonally opposite the triumphal arch.
Stephen the Great is one of the most important rulers of present-day Romania in the fight against the Ottoman Empire. With the help of Vlad III Dracula, Stephen ascended the throne of the Principality of Moldavia in 1457.
The park is well-frequented and is located in the immediate vicinity of the university, the parliament, and several government buildings.
Artistic intelligence
My raiting: *
On Strada Columna, very close to the Bonjour Café described above, artists offer their paintings for sale.
The price is negotiable. Unfortunately, the size of my suitcase limited my options. Nevertheless: "Looky, looky, it's free!"
Cascade stairs in Valea Morilor Park
My raiting: *****
The cascading staircase in Valea Morilor Park in Chișinău is an architectural highlight and, with its 218 steps, also a real open-air gym – anyone who climbs it is guaranteed to feel it in their calves! Between the decorative steps with their views and fountains, there's plenty of time for a breather and the perfect selfie.
The park is situated on a picturesque lake with footpaths and sports tracks for joggers and skaters. It's a meeting place for locals and tourists of all ages, young and old lovers, families and retirees.
Kiosks here also offer small snacks and drinks, which are significantly cheaper than in the surrounding restaurants. For something a bit more upscale, you can enjoy Eastern European dishes at La Sarcis, located above the stairs. The restaurant also has a pleasant outdoor area, but it's not exactly cheap by Moldovan standards.
The tourist hotspots are mostly located in the city center. You can easily reach them on foot. Which brings us to a few warnings.
Culinary suggestions
In the city center you'll find plenty of restaurants and bars, such as the 24-hour Penthouse or the Zeppelin. There you can eat and drink to your heart's content, soak up the unique atmosphere of the city and its inhabitants, or meet up with friends.
Shisha is also offered in the penthouse in the afternoon.
Especially late in the evening, I recommend the popular liqueur bar Piana Vyshnia, which means "drunken cherry," where only cherry liqueur is served. It's very tasty, and the place itself is quite original.
And because I had already enjoyed a large beer in the penthouse, I now return to the hotel slightly tipsy but satisfied, after several liqueurs.
You can find good food almost everywhere. Chișinău boasts an extremely wide selection of restaurants, catering to all categories and price ranges.
A bit more expensive, but with good cuisine and a more pleasant outdoor terrace, is the New York restaurant at the Radisson Blu Leogrand Hotel.
At the slightly cool yet cheeky Panini Divini, you can get delicious, freshly made paninis in all shapes and sizes: Strada Alexandru cel Bun 98A, Chișinău.
Enjoy them any time of day, for breakfast with tea or coffee, or simply as a snack.
Anyone longing for a touch of Parisian flair will find it at Delice D Ange, Strada 31 August 1989 2A, Chișinău. Besides fresh cakes and pastries, it's also a great place for breakfast.
In addition to an outdoor terrace, there's indoor seating on two levels.
I also enjoyed the vibrant market in Chișinău, located at Strada Mitropolit, Varlaam 47, Chișinău.
This is where people go about their daily shopping. It's almost like a culinary treasure hunt; almost no one can resist the temptations.
You'll certainly find it difficult to maintain your ideal weight in this city.
TikTok Prophylaxis (TTP)
No matter where you go, what's striking is how clean the streets are. People are very consistent in using the public trash cans. It's reminiscent of our Chancellor's debate on urban planning. I start to rack my brains. Where was I again? Oh yeah, TikTok prophylaxis.
We humans tend to constantly stare at our phone screens.
The city of Chișinău has developed a preventative measure to address this very issue. In an effort to encourage mindful and attentive walking, small flowerpots are randomly placed along the streets.
Especially at night, in poorly lit streets, these flowerpots can amplify the effects of gravity in moments of inattention.
Sustainable reuse of old Soviet-era concrete spheres—halved—has the same effect, albeit less decoratively.
A completely different, though no less significant, challenge confronted me on my way to the bus station. A somewhat dilapidated bridge, dating back to the days of Indiana Jones, forced me to make a pivotal decision: could I cross it only with the right strategy, or risk plunging into the abyss?
This too is part of the city administration's concept of raising awareness: not to risk one's life with trivial posts. In short: many of the city's sidewalks are merely a vague promise, existing only in outline, and sometimes with significant elevation changes.
If you're arriving by car, I strongly recommend paying attention to this sign; I deliberately choose to show it in full size:
Germans—and not only they—deliberately ignore pedestrians at crosswalks. Not so in Chișinău! No matter how wide the road is, vehicles consistently stop—even slamming on the brakes if necessary. And that's a real blessing.
Please keep this in mind when driving through the city, and even more so when there are vehicles ahead of you. They stop regardless of your non-existent safety distance.
The adventurous and mysterious Chișinău North bus station
What torments me all the time in Chișinău is the fact that the Ukrainian city of Odessa is only about 200 km away. That's where I want to go. There are no more train connections for security reasons. But several bus lines run daily from the North Bus Station to the city on the Black Sea.
Online, there are dire warnings about the abysmal service at the bus station. I decide to put it to the test, walk up to a Flixbus and ask when the bus to Odessa departs. The driver tells me I first have to buy a ticket at the bus station.
At the bus station, they rudely send me out. "Buy tickets o u t s i d e!" All that's missing is for them to yell "Damn Boomer Generation!" after me.
Once outside, an equally irritated woman directs me to the other side of the building.
There I stroll past dark figures of the bus driver caste and discover another sign with the inscription "CASA", which probably means "cash register".
Because of my height, I have to bend down low to glimpse a cashier from the pre-communist era through the small window.
At least attempting a semblance of friendliness, she croaks a "No Flixbus" at me and abruptly and decisively closes the window, presumably signaling that the sales conversation is over.
Solution to the riddle: I'm a softie and it's better to buy Flixbus tickets online. The women are mostly just decoration.
Fazit
Every trip has its own focus. Sometimes it's about encounters, sometimes about culture, political events, or simply relaxing. Moldova is a multilingual country, and I suspect that those who speak Russian or Romanian will have a very good time conversing and connecting with people. English is still the exception here.
I was incredibly lucky with the weather.
Almost every day was sunny. My lack of language skills was more than compensated for by enjoyable sightseeing tours, the numerous parks, and the many cafés where you could still sit outside even in October.
Especially after my return trip from Odessa/Ukraine to Chișinău/Moldova, I saw the city in a new light.
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